Introduction to Sustainable Fashion

There is no beauty in the finest cloth if it makes hunger and unhappiness.” – Mahatma Gandhi

The fashion industry is famously known to have major sustainability problems. It is reputedly the second-largest polluter in the world and it is labour intensive. 

Terms like "Sustainability", "Sustainable Fashion", "Fast fashion", "Slow fashion", "ethical fashion" etc. has made place in vocabularies of all Fashionistas and others. But, the true meaning and all facets of Sustainability is understood by few. This blog is my attempt to explain basics of Sustainable Fashion.

What is Sustainable fashion?

Sustainable fashion is a movement and a process. It's aim is to bring change to fashion products and the fashion system towards greater ecological integrity and social justice. The goal of sustainable fashion is to create flourishing ecosystems and communities through its activity.

Sustainability issues with Fashion industry

The Sustainability issue with Fashion industry is has two dimensions:

Effect on Environment

The industry’s water consumption, carbon footprint and the amount of waste generation is very high. Synthetic fabrics, chemically treated and coloured clothes are the main reason behind the severity of the issue.

Clothing production now accounts for 20% of global industrial water pollution and 10% of carbon emissions. The United Nations reports that carbon emissions from the sector are estimated to grow by more than 60% by 2030.

Unfair labour practices

Fashion Industry also impacts the people who work within it. The industry is labour intensive and hence outsources the work to countries with cheap labour and lesser regulations. These workers are often less paid and are forced to work in poor working conditions and exploitative environment. They are subject to long hours, health hazards, and harassment. Due to long supply chains, Brands conveniently disassociate themselves from exploitative practices and turn blind eye towards their Social responsibility. It is difficult to keep the working conditions in check, due to differences in regulations and lack of access to employment records.

This issue came in light after the 2013 collapse of a clothing factory in Bangladesh that killed more than 1,100 workers.

What is Fast fashion?

A number of brands are consciously trying to be more sustainable by using biodegradable materials, sustainable cotton to reduce water, energy and chemical use and new dyeing technology to reduce water consumption. But the problem has now shifted to the ever increasing demand of new clothes and discarding of the old ones i.e. Fast fashion.

Under the Fast Fashion model, garments are sold for relatively cheap prices and aimed at trend driven and fashion-conscious consumers. Streamlined supply chains and short production times have made this approach both possible and profitable for brands. This again leads to pollution, exploitation of natural resources and unfair labour practices.

What is Ethical Fashion?

The term "Ethical fashion” has gained popularity in recent times. However, the ethical practices have been the part of Fashion industry since a long time.

To define ethical fashion seems impossible because of the varying definitions of ethics in different timelines, cultures and regions.

It can be said an umbrella involving all processes of design, production, retail, and purchasing. Fair treatment of people in the stages of raw material, processing and manufacture is paramount. 

The range of issues covered under Ethical Fashion is also larger such as working conditions, exploitation, fair trade, sustainable production, environment and animal welfare. These all can be reduced to three core ethical values:

1) Social Good

2) Environment Friendly

3) Animal Cruelty-Free

Arguably, Sustainable Fashion emphasize only on sustainability of production while Ethical Fashion encompasses broader range of issues.

Why is it difficult to adopt Sustainable Fashion?

1) Trend Driven Industry: Fashion is a trend driven industry where everyone is conscious of looking good and are trying to have access to latest trends. This in turn leads to discarding of old items which usually end up in landfills.

2) Cost: There is a desirability of looking fashionable among people in general which comes at a very high cost. General public cannot afford expensive items and hence, turn to the cheaper versions. Few Brands are trying to achieve sustainability but there is an unwillingness to pay the premium among consumers. We often forget that "Fast fashion is not free. Someone, Somewhere, is paying."

3) Synthetic fabrics: The usage of synthetic fabrics have increased by brands in order to fulfill the increased demand for cheaper clothes. These fabrics are chemically treated and non-biodegradable. 

4) Ignorance: Lack of adequate knowledge and awareness about ethical fashion and sustainability is also a cause for slow growth of sustainable fashion. Even the consumers who are aware of issues end up buying fast fashion due to human psychology of instant gratification.

What can brands do?

Brands making sustainable clothes depend solely on appealing to ethical side of people to buy sustainable fashion and they often, themselves make the Fast fashion versions. This doesn't seem to tackle the situation.

Brands have to step up and consciously try to make their production methods sustainable at each step. Though this doesn't seem to be a smart move given the fierce competition, but there are long term benefits. Ethical practices pay off by reducing risks of fines and reputational damage for non-compliance with best practice guidelines.

Ways to be sustainable

1) Measure: Before production, brands must look into the entire life cycle of a clothing (from procuring raw materials to generation of waste) to measure the true environmental effects of textile production and implement solutions.

2) Minimise Resources: Brands must aim to minimize waste, use resources efficiently, and generate more value in our clothing employing best design practices.

3) Awareness: Brands must step up and raise awareness among consumers about their role in industry and how they can bring change by lifestyle changes.

4) Going back to traditions: Brand can switch to established traditional practices of tying, dyeing and weaving exquisite textiles and drapes provides a robust platform for production and procurement of sustainable raw material of various kinds and it will also give employment to local artisans.

5) Innovation: Brands can also dedicate their resources towards developing new technology and business models to design products that can be recycled or re-engineered into new styles with minimal use of virgin materials, water, energy and chemicals.

6) Follow applicable regulations: Brands must follow the applicable environmental and labour laws and regulations irrespective of the fact of poor implementation of law and proper checks by government. The present laws can't be said sufficient, but they can be a start to the sustainable/ethical fashion.

While fashion undeniably sustains the global economy, its unsustainable production methods come at high environmental and human costs—costs that society can no longer afford to overlook or conceal.